| Installing a Throttle and Shifter | | Print | |
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Nothing dresses up a boat's dash like sporty new gauges and controls. Here's a step-by-step look at a red-hot helm installation Originally published July 2008 issueThe functional elements of a go-fast boat's helm are pretty simple. A steering wheel-connected to other hardware of course-is for maneuvering. A throttle gives a driver control of speed, and a shifter channels that control to forward, reverse or neutral. The instruments provide information. And if it were that simple, there wouldn't be an array of gauges, steering wheels and throttle-and-shifter choices, not to mention the numerous companies that offer them. Of course, the primary purpose of those elements is their actual, real-world function. But gauges, steering wheels and throttles and shifters also function as stylistic elements. They help establish the identity of a boat. In the first installment of this how-to series, the folks at CP Performance outfitted an Eliminator Boats 27 Daytona catamaran "project boat," which CP Performance is using to showcase various products, with an upgraded IMCO Marine gimbal assembly and a Bravo One XR drive. That was a smart first move, given that the boat is powered by a 900-horsepower engine that reportedly will get it to 120-plus mph. For round two of the sport-cat buildup, the builder and parts supplier turned their focus to the 27-footer's helm. No doubt, any sport cat that tops 120 mph needs top-flight instruments and controls. Equally important is the positioning and visibility of those gauges. Same goes for the throttle-and-shifter unit, as well as the steering wheel and accessory switches. For the gauges, the crew at CP Performance went the Auto Meter/Livorsi Marine route. A leather-wrapped Isotta wheel on an 8-inch billet extension was the call for the steering wheel, while a Quick Draw throttle-and-shifter unit from Hardin Marine got the nod for controls. To sweeten the pot, as it were, CP Performance tossed in a custom iPod mount from Enriched Audio in Santa Rosa, Calif., for the boat's monster sound system. Naturally, before a single hole was drilled in the 27 Daytona's molten-red dash, the entire layout was carefully planned. In fact, once the layout was complete, the actual installation was straightforward and within reach of most mechanically inclined do-it-yourselfers. The results, as you'll see from this step-by-step feature, were stunning.
Talk about an empty canvas-the bare dash (A) of the Eliminator Boats 27 Daytona was ready to receive the instruments and controls. The boatbuilder designed the dash with ideal gauge location options and excellent visibility. After measuring and rechecking the measurements, installer Rick Bourns drilled holes (B) for the platinum-face Auto Meter Marine/Livorsi Marine gauges and chrome bezels. Once the holes were drilled and the gauges were fitted to their positions, their requisite wiring was attached (C).
Proper helm placement is crucial to driver comfort. With the helm position precisely marked and masked, Bourns drilled the required hole in the dash (D). One of the bonuses of using a hidden helm assembly was the compact design of its mounting area, which left extra space for the accessory switches. Underneath the dash, the Char-Lynn hydraulic helm (E) was properly fastened. Hydraulic line connections were positioned for routing hoses down the starboard side of the boat. Once the drilling was complete, the crew installed the hidden helm assembly (F), shown here with the steering post removed. Because the assembly installed below the surface of the dash, the steering post was hidden.
Pilot holes were drilled for the cutout for the Stainless Marine "No Slack" trim indicators (G). Once the hole was cut, Bourns installed the platinum/chrome panel (H) for the indicators. The touch-pad ignition system by Hardin Marine was laid out (I) to the left of the accessory switches. After rechecking the layout, Bourns drilled the required mounting hole (J) for the ignition system. The blue tape on the surface of the dash helped prevent the gelcoat from getting chipped or scratched during the installation. The keyless touch-pad ignition system (K) slid easily in to place and was secured with its supplied hardware. A round 2 5/8"-diameter "Monster" version of the touch pad also is available from Hardin Marine.
Proper location and layout (L) of the throttle-and-shifter mechanism is a must. It's particularly important to leave enough space for cable connections. This helps ensure smooth operation of the throttle and shifter. The Quick Draw throttle and shifter (M) fit neatly in place, and both its levers had a silky smooth, hitch-free action. As a bonus, the rounded, platinum cover for the unit complemented many of the rounded lines in the 27 Daytona. The "raw" iPod mount (N) from Enriched Audio was an excellent addition at the helm. Once installed, the mount was painted (O) to match the accessory-switch panel, as well as the platinum faces of the gauges and other pewter elements.
Little "blings," like having the Eliminator name (P) etched into the billet lid for the glove box on the co-pilot's side can make a big difference. The completed helm (Q) was breathtaking. And from the gauges to the controls, function was not compromised in any way or form. Next project: Rigging and prepping the engine with a Whipple Supercharger, a Hardin Marine serpentine drive system and an MSD ignition. Contact Information CP Performance Eliminator Boats Enriched Mobile Electronics Hardin Marine Stainless Marine If you like what you're reading, get more by subscribing to Powerboat magazine here. |
